Radko Tichavsky is a Czech born Mexican Agrohomeopath. He is a co-founder and director of Instituto Comenius in Mexico and author of Handbook of Agrohomeopathy, 2007 (Spanish) and Homeopathy for Plants, 2009 (Spanish) and creator and teacher of Holohomeopathy.
Radko Tichavskyi is now offering a one semester virtual course in Agrohomeopathy (in English). You can learn how to define and analyze holons and how to repertorize the specific homeopathic treatment beyond just disease or pest names. You can find out more here:
A Materia Medica and Repertory for Plants: Mark Moodie hosts the website “Considera”, which provides a growing M.M and Repertory for plants and discusses resources for biodynamics and Agrohomeopathy .The website allows the world community to contribute their experiences in planting.
One of the Areca palms on my balcony has black spots on the leaves and doesn’t flourish well. What can I do to fix it?
The Areca palms hardly flower in pots (but it is not impossible). The flowering depends on the vital conditions of the plant. It requires well drained soil (50% composite and 50% fine sand, with good drainage), conditions without air passing through (which is not probably observed in the balcony). I suggest moving the plant to a less exposed place, with access to good luminosity, for example near the window, although the plant tolerates direct sunlight, the ideal is semi-shade. The Areca palm is very sensitive to excess calcium in soil and the water, which causes deficiencies of other nutrients, Manganese and Iron typically. To water the plant you can use rainwater or demineralised water ideally. Irrigation can be done three times a week and you can use a nebulizer. In the winter you have to diminish the watering a little. The homeopathic treatment in winter should be applied foliarly and in the summer mainly on the soil. The plant usually blooms during the summer, and to induce flowering use Phosphorus 12 CH and Ferrum phosphoricum 12 CH, but it is also important to apply Tilandsia usneoides 12 CH since the plant in its natural environment exchanges the metabolites with the plants of the family of the Bromeliaceas. For the damages observed in the plant in the photo, you can use Silicea terra 12 CH and Ganoderma lucidum 100 CH.
Dear Radko Tichavsky,
Of late we are observing the severe problem of plant nematodes infection in the
roots of maize, rice and many other crops in our state of Karnataka in India. It is spreading to many other areas very fast. Since it is a soil born problem, chemical control is not effective. It is spreading to new areas very fast due to the movement of contaminated seeds and fodder etc. Are there some homeopathic control or management options for this problem? I look forward for your valuable advice to manage this international problem related to food production
T.K.S. Gowda – Karnataka State, India
Dear T.K.S. Gowda,
Nematode symptoms correspond in the holon to very specific problems of toxicity of heavy elements in the soil, and are generally present in clay soils. Farmers generally perceive the nematodes as an enemy of plants, and in fact some of them do damage, but they also have a very important role in the decontamination of the soil.
One of the most important sources of contamination of soils with particles with high atomic weight is industrial sludge used as fertilizers and, above all, artificial synthetic fertilizers. Before worrying about the disappearance of nematodes we should first worry about reducing the toxicity of heavy elements such as cadmium, lead or arsenic in the soil, for example by means of chelators. One of the high efficiency homeopathic chelators is Opuntia ficus-indica 6 CH, but also Aloe vera 6 CH or Baryta carbonica 30 CH. Increasing the content of compost of plant origin in soils, abandonment of chemical fertilizers and zero tillage of the soil are practices that help decontaminate the soil of heavy elements. And only after fulfilling these conditions of good practices in the soil, we can apply one of the very important homeopathic remedies in the control of the nematodes, which is Chenopodium album 12 CH, otherwise we would generate a dangerous suppression of symptoms in holon.
Dear Mr. Tichavsky,
I have planted Papaya plants in my back yard. They have started producing the fruits. Some of them are matured to harvest. Unfortunately some plants are showing the symptoms of viral infections. The growing tip of these plants is very much affected showing yellowing and vein clearing. Growth is reduced with no fruit setting. Do you have any advice to control this disease from spreading to other trees? Is there a homeopathic treatment for cure or control this disease
Looking forward to your help in saving my papaya plants.
With best regards
Dear T.K.S. Gowda,
It´s a pity that you did not send a photo of the crop, which would have helped determine more accurately if the problem is primarily due to the viruses. Some papaya virus infections can be easily confused (even by some experts) with the damage of an Acarus invisible to the eyes, Polyphagptarsonemus latus, which produces symptoms similar to some viral diseases.
The virus in fact must be transmitted by man or by insects, for example by the Empoasca papaya in addition to the mite Polyphagptarsonemus latus and aphids.
The first application to be made is Sulphur 6 CH foliarly applied with Opuntia ficus-indica slime as an adjuvant. The application should be done in the afternoon when there is no strong sun. For the second application, three days later, you can apply Salix babylonica 6 CH, also applied foliarly, alternating with Echinacea purpurrea 100 CH. If you can find the plant Clerodendrum aculeatum you can make mother tincture and dynamize it up to 12 CH potency and apply foliarly.
In the irrigation water you can apply a little slime of Opuntia ficus-indica, mainly as a chelator of high levels of aluminum that is associated wth this symptomatology. Once every two weeks apply Ruta graveolens 6 CH with Opuntia ficus-indica slime as an adjuvant.
Dear Plant Doctor,
We have a massive problem with the box tree moth (C. Perspectalis). It attacks mainly box trees, and many plants are already dead. People use agrochemicals in double or triple dosage, but I don’t want to. Is there a homeopathic solution to it?
I once applied nosode of the caterpillar in 6CH, but with no positive result.
My location is Dobrich, Bulgaria. Thank you!
The main reason why the nosode of Cydalina perspectalis does not work, is that it is a recently introduced pest (the first European report was in 2006) and the European holon still does not identify its natural enemies. In fact this happens with all the introduced pests. The nosode can have a real repercussion until the new organism introduced is integrated into the holon. In this case, a homeopathic polypharmaceutical composed of Lantana camara (TM made from green seeds), Ricinus communis (TM made from seeds) and Alocacia macrorhiza (TM made from fresh root) in 12 CH can be applied with a little olive oil as adjuvant.
Dear Mr. Tischavsky,
I live in south of France and I grow about 100 olive trees. What can I do against the olive fruit fly? I use pheromone traps, but they are only partially effective.
Dacus oleae, considered a plague, is nothing more than an expression of the imbalance of the holons. You can use Aesculus hippocastannum 12 CH alternated with Vanilla mexicana 12 CH and Ruta graveolens 6 CH, all with a little coconut oil as an adjuvant (300 ml per 1000 liters of homeopathic remedy), sprayed foliarly and also on the soil. It is applied once a week for the first three weeks and then every two to three weeks. Daucus oleae is a polyphagous insect that prefers but does not live exclusively on olive trees.
I suggest suspending the application of pheromones, as they only reduce the pressure of the pest temporarily. Because they attract only males and not females, the insect moves its mating areas to the adjacent areas where it will establish areas of resistance and continue visiting your olives, creating a bifurcated suppression effect on the holon.
I am from Kerala, India. Thank you for your great suggestions through the ‘plant doctor’ columns. In the Mango Plant it is observed that the new leaves are growing with a cut in the middle of the leaves. I found that a small beetle is cutting leaves as. Less than ten insects can spoil all the new leaves of a medium size mango tree within a day. In the rainy season these insects come frequently whereas in summer days less frequently. Can you please suggest an appropriate homeopathc medicine to overcome this problem?
Abdul Gafoor – Kerala
You can apply a homeopathic remedy made from the resin of Pinus spp. Any pine that is in your area is good. You can use it to make mother tincture and the 12 CH potency, and apply it with a little of coconut oil as an adjuvant, sprayed on the trees. You can alternate it with a remedy made from TM, from the essential oil of Apium graveolens in the 6 CH potency and Thymus vulgaris at 6 CH potency.
Hello Radko Tichavsky,
I am a Canadian Homeopath and want to use the treatment as outlined in the Agrohomeopathy book by Kaviraj for Ash trees that we have here in Ontario, Canada (North Eastern Carolinian Forests). Latin name: Fraxinus americana (White Ash specifically).
There is an infestation of a beetle, the “Emerald Ash Borer Beetle”. Kaviraj told me the remedy would be Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare) to deal with the Beetle that is infesting our large and healthy Ash trees.
I learned directly from Kaviraj – may he rest in peace – that applying the remedy at the larvae stage is what is required. However, I did not ask him any details. Thus, I am unsure about dosing the remedy. Would it be watering (prepared rx stock in lots of water!) at the roots of a full grown tree? Or would it involve wrapping remedy soaked cloths around the trunk of a tree?
Thank you for your help and your fine work as The Plant Doctor for readers of the great resource Soulknights Ezine.
All the best,
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
I will comment directly on the case in regards to the symptoms of Agrillus marcopoli. You can apply Sapindus saponaria 6 CH (TM made from the seed and its cover) alternated with Berberis vulgaris 6 CH. You have to apply the remedy on the trunk and also on the soil around the tree to make a good transfer of the remedy in the circulatory system of the tree (phloem, cambium and xylem). Mainly you have to be persistent in the applications once a month. The insect has cycles of one or two years and as a control observation you must count the exit holes of the adults that appear in the bark of Fraxinus a. Every 3 months you can also apply Ganoderma applanatum 6 CH around the tree and on the aerial part of it.
If my question are too many, please answer whatever you can. I am a small farmer in the Konkan region in Maharashtra with crops and plantations being cultivated – Mango, Cashew and Teak plantations. There are small Ola’s planted under the trees for root treatment with water and other fertilisers in the liquid form. And even the sprays are possible with gravitational sprayers in my farm.
In mangoes we face several diseases because of pests and fungus. They are
1) Powdery Mildew
5) Red rust
Pests are :
1) Hoppers causing fungus
2) Fruit flies
3) Leaf webber
4) Stem borer
Also, please can you give me the schedule from June to May to be followed each year with vermi-compose?
I have already applied Silicea 6c as a weedicide with promising results. You have said to spray 2 times but I just tried it once. The result was that the weeds did not grow very tall in one spray. Next year will work on twice as suggested by you.
You can control the fungal symptoms under the “simila similibus curentur” principle by using mainly tree-decomposing fungi other than those growing on your trees, for example Ganoderma lucidum, Phellinus badius, Ganoderma applanatum, Hexagonia sp., and others in potencies between 6 and 12 CH. You should explore inside and outside your holon to locate these decomposing fungi. It is also very important to maintain a good soil cover, for example by combining: native grasses, clover and alfalfa, to keep the fungi busy in what they should to do: ie. create humus and decompose organic material to form more soil.
When the cover plants grow to the height of a human palm, then cut them and leave them in place to revitalize to the soil. Then the application of nosode of soil will be very useful.